Journal : Asian journal of beauty and cosmetology
Author : Hee-Sook Kim, Young-Hee Choi
Published date : 2016
Purpose: This study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness and safety of spicule as a physical peeling technique and glycolic acid (40%, pH 3) as a chemical peeling technique for ameliorating acne-induced skin problems and reducing damage to the skin barrier. This study also intended to recommend the criteria for the safe and effiient use of these peeling care techniques. Methods: The study included 15 women in their 20s and 30s with acne problems. Physical peeling using spicule and chemical peeling using glycolic acid were performed in each experimental group. A peeling care test was performed twice in 4 weeks (once every 2 weeks). The number of pores (visible pores, large pores, and blackheads), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin color were measured before and after the test. Results: In both experimental groups, a significant reduction in the number of visible and large pores was observed. Although the spicule group exhibited a higher reduction, no significant difference was observed between the two groups. The number of blackheads decreased in both groups; however, only the spicule group exhibited a significant reduction. Further, both groups exhibited reduced TEWL, but the reduction was significant only in the spicule group. Moreover, the spicule group exhibited significantly improved skin brightness (L*), erythema status (a *), and skin lesion status (b*). Although the glycolic acid group showed improvement in all parameters of the skin color (L*a*b*), signifiant improvement was observed only in skin brightness (L*). Conclusion: The results indicated that physical peeling using spicule was effective at improving skin problems and minimizing damage to the skin barrier. Therefore, the present study strongly recommends that spicule is a valuable functional cosmetic product that is effective in reducing damage, such as large pores, acne red spots, and pigmentation, to the skin barrier and in enhancing the repair of the damaged skin barrier.